Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production

Highly Effective, Highly Affordable Fire Safety

by Russ Jowell (rjowell@wrapcompliance.org)

The beginning of 2013 has brought us yet another tragic reminder of why fire safety is so vitally important for garment factories. The incident in question is a fire that broke out on January 26 at the Smart Export Garments factory in Bangladesh that claimed the lives of at least 7 people and injured dozens more. As the investigation gets underway, reports from survivors and eyewitnesses have revealed something disturbing; much of the human toll was due to the ill-preparedness of the factory to deal with a fire. In other words, some, if not all, of the 7 lives that were lost could have been spared if some simple safety measures had been implemented before the fire. What makes this even more frustrating is that headlines about factory ill-preparedness have shown up far too often in similar situations. In 2012 alone, headlines about factories being unprepared to deal with a fire were seen following the November 24 Tazreen Factory in Bangladesh and the September 11 Ali Enterprises fire in Pakistan, both of which claimed over 100 lives each. As other notable incidents have indicated, including a 2010 fire at a factory producing for H&M, a 2006 fire at the KTS Textile Factory in Chittagong, and the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire in 1911, the importance of fire preparedness in garment factories cannot be overstated. In many cases it can mean the difference between a close call and a devastating tragedy. The good news is that many highly-effective fire prevention measures are also easy to implement, easy to use, and are highly affordable.

As a social compliance organization, the health and safety of workers is of the utmost importance to WRAP, and we believe it should remain in the forethought of every factory owner and operator. With this in mind, however, we recognize that those who construct and operate these facilities have business demands that need to be met and are responsible for keeping revenues high and costs low. Today we are going to look at how profit is compatable with protection and examine at ways to reduce risk while retaining revenue.

A good basis for this topic is the internationally-practiced 5-Step Risk Assessment Process, which serves as a road map for fire prevention measures and forms the basis of WRAP’s Factory Fire Safety Course. These steps provide guidelines for those charged with implementing preventative measures. They are as follows:

  1. Identify Fire Hazards
  2. Identify People at Risk
  3. Evaluate, Remove, Reduce, and Protect from Risk
  4. Record, Plan, Inform, Instruct, and Train
  5. Review

The identification of hazards and people at risk is an effective first step to fire prevention. A simple factory walk-through can identify risks that can be easily corrected and find more severe risks that need immediate attention. Some things to be conscious of during this walk include stacks of fabric or other flammable materials near heat sources, power outlets that are being overused, exposed power cables, potential trip hazards along escape routes or high-traffic corridors, the sight or smell of smoke in an area where there should be none, and improperly stored flammable chemicals. This is also an opportunity to examine individual worker stations for potential hazards. Regular observational walks through a factory can greatly increase awareness about fire risks and help begin reducing and/or eliminating them.

This brings us to the next step in the process which is the evaluation and reduction of risk. Walk-throughs are good ways to see the risks, but they are only effective if factory managers maintain a commitment to address them as soon as possible. If problems are spotted, managers should take accountability for them and see that they are fixed or addressed promptly. Factory officials should also maintain situational awareness of any changes to a factory’s environment that may affect fire risk.

Following the assessment of risk, the next step in the process is that of recording, planning, and training. While identifying and minimizing risks are important, it is equally crucial that measures are in place to help deal with a fire should one occur. This includes providing fire suppression equipment, clearly marking emergency exits and the routes to them, and providing sufficient training in the use of both. Let us begin with fire suppression. Fires need heat, fuel, and oxygen to survive and removing any one of these puts the fire out. In most cases, the easiest of these to remove is oxygen and there are several, cost-effective methods that achieve this. Modern fire extinguishers are perhaps the most notable solutions. They come filled with a variety of chemicals designed to smother a fire to death. But there are two other, more commonly available substances that serve as good fire extinguishers. Water or sand stored in fire buckets can provide a low-cost yet highly effective fire suppression solution for most types of fires. Both substances quickly deprive a fire of its oxygen and water has the added benefit of carrying heat away from the fire in the form of steam. It should be noted though that due to its conductivity, water should never be used on an electrical fire.  When assembling fire buckets, make sure they are well labelled, easily accessible, and checked periodically for readiness.

Unfortunately, fires do have the potential to spread out of control requiring evacuation of personnel. Even in this scenario, injuries can be minimized with well-planned exits. The purpose of an emergency exit is to provide the occupants of a building a quick and easy way to escape disaster. Finding and using the exit should require minimal effort for anyone inside the building. First and foremost, exits should be easy to see. They should be clearly marked as being an emergency exit and have clear pathways marked to them from any point inside the building. These paths should also be clear of any obstructions or trip hazards. A good practice is to periodically walk the entire path to an exit to be sure it is clear. Finally, an emergency exit door should be easy to use and require only seconds to open, because that may be all the time it takes for a small fire to grow into an explosive inferno. The exit should lead directly outside and provide a clear path away from the building. If theft or intrusion through these exits is of concern, consider installing a panic bar or a door alarm that is triggered whenever the door is opened. It is important to point out, however, that the exit should never be locked under any circumstances!

The final consideration of fire preparedness is training. Proper education is the thread that ties all of the aforementioned concepts together. Workers and management alike should be trained to spot fire hazards quickly and know how to mitigate or eliminate them. Training should also be provided regarding the best practices for minimizing fire hazards during the course of a normal workday. Additionally, employees should be knowledgeable in the operation of any fire suppression equipment as well as how to evacuate should that be required. WRAP’s Fire Safety Course is an ideal forum in which to learn about these topics. Live, interactive demonstrations also provide a crucial hands-on element to the course that gives students a chance to practice fire response techniques.

Loss of life should never been seen as acceptable within the garment industry. As one of our 12 Principles, WRAP remains committed to the belief that all workers should expect a safe and healthy working environment from their employers. With this in mind, we also believe that protection and profits need not be mutually exclusive. Safety and productivity can co-exist inside a factory’s walls without hindering each other.

WRAP’s President & CEO Avedis Seferian previews the year ahead

Training The Trainers: How WRAP is helping M&S change the world, one worker at a time

Participants at a "Train the Trainer" course (WRAP Photo)

Participants at a Train the Trainer course (WRAP Photo)

British retailer Marks & Spencer (M&S) is embarking on a very lofty mission. As part of their “Plan A” commitment to become the world’s most sustainable retailer, the company is setting out to train 500,000 workers at their suppliers’ factories by 2015. The goal is to better educate them on their rights and responsibilities while also broadening their knowledge on more basic skills like financial literacy. Educating half a million workers is not an easy feat however, especially because the factories that employ these workers are scattered throughout the world. This challenge requires a solution that is modular enough to be expanded globally while maintaining its educational effectiveness.

 Enter the “Train the Trainer” course, a joint venture between WRAP and M&S. Developed using the M&S “Induction Essentials” course as a guide, the 2-day “Train the Trainer” course gives factory training personnel valuable lessons on training both new and existing workers in a way that is both effective and engaging. Stuart Webster, WRAP’s Vice-President of Training and Education, says this is essential to the course’s success. “We believe that the trainer must understand the way people think and learn. People learn in different ways, so our training is constructed to suit all learning styles,” says Webster.

The “Train the Trainer” course focuses on three main areas: Health & Safety, Worker’s Rights, and Company Information. Each section shows trainers the best way to disseminate the applicable information and also includes instructions for relevant, interactive activities. “We do not believe in death by PowerPoint,” says Webster. An example of interactivity can be seen within the Health & Safety module where workers are split into groups, given various photos of the factory, and instructed to locate any health and safety hazards in those photos. Another similar activity is included that directs workers to circle important pieces of information on their paystubs. This interactivity is critical to the course’s success according to Dr. Anna Harvey, Ethical Trading Manager for M&S. “You’re not going to get your information across otherwise,” she says.

Training workers has been critically important to M&S; the company understands that well-trained workers perform better, are less likely to quit, and ultimately contribute to a growing bottom line. “We recognize how important training is to our factories from a business point of view and from a worker point of view,” says Harvey. She says the “Induction Essentials” course grew out of a desire to ensure all factories have an opportunity to improve where they are right now, giving them an opportunity to add value to their business, and that the trainer’s course will help them reach their goal.

“We recognize how important training is to our factories from a business point of view and from a worker point of view”

Dr. Anna Harvey,
M&S Ethical Trading Manager

WRAP has also worked to ensure the course is modular and portable; able to be tailored and customized for a wide variety of cultures and environments. “We believe that training must be sustainable, so we strive to use local resources whenever possible,” says Webster. The course also demonstrates how easily other courses like “Induction Essentials” can be tailored to meet factory-specific training needs. “We want to make sure that we’re building capacity at the factory,” says Harvey. The course was recently administered in Indonesia by Jospeh Lok, WRAP’s Senior Manager of Compliance and Training. He says the course was very well received by its participants. “These are all very interesting new ideas which I can incorporate into our training,” said one participant. Others commented on how enjoyable the course was made through humor and said the 2-day session was time well spent.

The trainer’s course ensures that factory personnel have the necessary skillsets to effectively transfer important information to their workers. “By training the trainers in the factory, we’re leaving a legacy,” says Harvey.

 

The Garment Industry Land Rush: New Markets

by Russ Jowell (rjowell@wrapcompliance.org)

Last month we examined an interesting phenomenon within the global garment industry that hearkened back to the Oklahoma Land Run of 1889. The phenomenon was that of hundreds of garment makers leaving behind traditional garment sourcing destinations, like China,  in search of more favorable grounds on which to make and sell their goods. Today we’re going to look at how the same phenomenon is taking shape on the consumer end of the garment market. Just as many factories are seeking out countries with more favorable conditions for making garments, shifting economic conditions in traditional consumer markets are also forcing factories to look elsewhere to sell their goods. What’s fascinating about this phenomenon is that many of the same countries losing prominence as sourcing destinations are gaining prominence as consumer markets. Some of these countries are even exploring ways to leverage their existing garment making capacity to meet their growing domestic demand.

Let’s begin by looking at some of the troubles facing the traditional apparel markets in Europe and the United States. Lingering economic side effects from the 2008 global recession coupled with growing governmental uncertainty have taken a notable toll on consumer confidence in the west. A recent report from Reuters indicated that confidence among U.S. consumers hit a 5-month low in early December, partly due to growing concern that the U.S. Congress will not act to prevent the so-called “fiscal cliff” from taking effect. In Europe, recent statistics have indicated that rising utility bills and increasing worry about jobs has given rise to the world’s lowest consumer confidence levels. The ripple effects of these issues have eroded consumer demand for apparel, in turn causing retailers and brands to curtail their orders. Data from the U.S. Department of Commerce indicated that overall U.S. textile and garment imports saw a 1.3% year-on-year decline in September, the month when many U.S. retailers make purchases for the busy holiday shopping season. European imports have not fared much better.

This uncertainty has not gone unnoticed by the world’s top apparel-making countries. An official with Bangladesh’s Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) recently expressed the need for the country to diversify its export markets with apparel industry officials from IndiaSri Lanka, and Vietnam making similar assertions. These countries are starting to take action; over 10% of Bangladesh’s apparel revenues in Q3 2012 were generated outside of Europe, Canada, and the United States, representing a 28.65% increase from the same period in FY 2011. India has also set out to increase their apparel exports to new markets by 11%.

So what are these new markets being targeted by sourcing countries? There are several of them, but the most lucrative ones seem to be within the quartet of countries known as BRIC (Brazil, Russia, India, and China). Identified as four of the world’s fastest emerging economies, they are also presenting great opportunities for new apparel markets, though as we will soon see, two of these countries are already top apparel producers and are leveraging that title to their advantage.

Let’s begin with Russia. The growing amount of expendable dollars Russian consumers have in their pockets has apparel manufactures seeing great profit potential. A recent report by research firm Euromonitor International indicated that the country’s apparel market has not yet reached saturation, maintaining its attractiveness to exporters, and supplying countries have taken notice.  A Vice President of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Associaion (BGMEA), recently told Fibre2Fashion that exploring the Russian market is not a choice, but a must for Bangladesh. To this end, a high level delegation from Russia is expected to visit Bangladesh this month to assess the country’s garment industry,  following a reciprocal visit by Bangladeshi officials to Russia earlier in the year. Bangladesh’s geographic neighbor India is also vying for a piece of the lucrative Russian market; earlier this year officials from India’s Apparel Exports Promotion Council (AEPC) attended one of the region’s largest apparel fairs in St. Petersburg.

India and Bangladesh also have their sights set on the growing consumer market in China, where disposable incomes have almost doubled over the past decade. At a recent seminar organized by the BGMEA, a senior research fellow at the Bangladesh Institute of Development Studies (BIDS) called the Chinese apparel market an “untapped opportunity for Bangladesh” and stated that Bangladesh could easily export US$1 billion in ready made garments to China within the next few years. India’s AEPC has also announced that it’s taking measures to double its apparel exports to China in the next 3 years. Both countries, however, along with a host of others looking to enter the Chinese market, could face competition from China itself, where the scale of domestic sales has more than doubled in just 6 years. As with India and Bangladesh, China has recognized the need to seek more markets for the goods they make. Fortunately, thanks to their growing middle class, they may not have to look outside their own borders. The CEO of shipping giant Maersk has predicted that China will evolve into a consumer economy by the year 2022, shifting away from its reliance on exports. Consequently, officials in Beijing are trying to steer the country toward a consumer economy and away from exports. The apparel industry is taking an active role in this transition. A Vice-President of the China National Garment Association recently noted that tapping into the domestic market has become the “key breakthrough” for garment producers. A recent survey of 614 clothing manufacturers China also indicated that over 90% of their sales came from the domestic market in 2011. Much of the domestic growth, however, is in products considered low to middle end; China is still struggling to build its own robust luxury brands to compete with the likes of Prada and Gucci, an important goal considering that the country is predicted to become the world’s second-largest luxury goods market within the decade.

Like it’s northern neighbor China, India is also finding itself in a transitional stage within the garment making community. While India is still the world’s #2 apparel maker, rising wages and a growing middle class are turning their economic focus inward. Domestic apparel demand is on the rise and suppliers have taken notice. Consumer spending on clothes in India is expected to surpass US$60 billion by 2015. While the government has made access for foreign retailers easier, domestic consumption of apparel is also on the rise. A recent study by Wazir Advisors and the Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) indicates a 13% increase in domestic textile consumption between 2007 and 2011 with demand expected to reach US$100 billion by 2016. Rapid expansion plans from foreign retailers like Britain’s Marks & Spencer means opportunities for foreign suppliers are still plentiful, and government officials are working to build a steady supply of apparel to meet demand. India is reportedly the third fastest-growing market for American made apparel, even in the light of the recent economic struggles of the United States. The country’s Commerce Secretary has also announced an initiative to increase imports from Bangladesh. The country hopes that balancing trade with Bangladesh will help in gaining duty free access to wealthier Western markets.

As you can see from both parts of this blog series, it is an exciting time in the world of apparel sourcing. Many developed and developing nations have changed their attitudes for each other from defense to diplomacy. As a result, formerly isolated, impoverished countries are finding themselves preparing for an influx of industry. Countries like Myanmar that were formerly shunned by the international community are now laying the groundwork to become new sourcing destinations while those countries with well-established garment-making communities are starting to reap the economic rewards of their labors in the form of increased disposable incomes. Those rewards, in turn, will create more demand for disposable goods, like apparel, creating more opportunities for more countries to shift from aid to trade, putting them on a path to prosperity.